DIY: Ombrè Kisses Soap

In my very awesome and whacky 2018 in Review & Three Things Post, one of the things I was proud as punch that I made was my awesome Ombrè Waves Soap. It is a blue soap! And it looks awesome! And full of awesome goodies I so want to share with you! And I was planning on posting that soap project as my very first soap of 2019. But then! I remembered that I should post something special that you can make for Valentine’s Day. So I jumped into the Workroom, and got to town making this glorious bar of wonder!

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this is what we are going to learn to do today! 

There is truly nothing special about this bar of soap. I used my usual fats and oils for an awesomely moisturising bar of soap; lard (of course because it is just awesome and one day I’ll dedicate an entire blog post to my odd love affair of lard in soap in a ditty, but not today!), olive oil (really it is just a filler oil in my opinion), coconut oil (hardening factor and for big fluffy bubbles!!!!), and castor oil (to help those bubbles reach new heights!). I added in some salt and sugar in my water, my lye, then some goats milk powder into the lye solution. I decided not to add any clay to this recipe. I think this might be one of the very first times in a long time that I’ve not added clay. Weird.

I decided to use Fig & Vanilla Fragrance Oil from Gracefruit to scent this soap. This fragrance oil is not that cloying sweet that you usually get when you see “vanilla” in the name. This I would consider it to be more of a “fruity vanilla”. It is bright, cheery, very uplifting and most certainly not cloying sweet. At the moment, this is my favourite fragrance to wear as a body spray.

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all my ingredients are at room temperature! 

To make what I call ombrè waves soap, you need to make sure your soap batter remains a liquid for as long as possible. To keep your soap a liquid, here are some tricks that I do:

  1. Soap at room temperature. Make sure both your lye solution AND fats and oils are at room temperature. If they are at different temps, your soap will thicken, and possibly accelerate or even seize.
  2. If you are using a fragrance oil or essential oils great! Just make sure you do not use one that accelerates. Look for ones that result in light or no acceleration.
  3. Add your fragrance oils or essential oils to your oils BEFORE you add the lye.
  4. Add everything you can BEFORE you mix. So clays and titanium dioxide are added to your lye solution and pre-mixed well. Your additives like extracts, milks, silks, and all those goodies have already been added where they need to go BEFORE you mix your lye solution to the oils. Add nothing but the pre-mixed colour after you’ve mixed your lye solution and oil solution together.
  5. Pour your lye solution SLOWLY down the shaft of your immersion blender and use VERY short and quick bursts as you mix.
  6. Ensure you mix your lye solution and your oil solution AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. It’s that important I said it twice. Need I say it a third time? Good.
  7. Make certain you have premixed your colours, pre- dispersed your micas and have them set side.

I always water discount to 35% on SoapCalc, but maybe upping your water discount to 38-40% might work for you to prevent trace. For your colours, I usually mix in 5g of colour into 30g of a liquid oil from the recipe for a 500g batch. But again, it depends on the potency of your micas, pigments, or other colourants you choose to use. I don’t really worry about there being “free oil” in the recipe especially when I superfat a recipe at 5%. If I was superfatting at a higher amount, it would be a much bigger problem!

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prepping your work space, prepare your mould, have some paper towels on hand, keep your work space clean and tidy! 

Before you go mixing your lye solution and oil solution, you are going to want to prep your work space. Prepare your mould to be smack dab in the perfect place to pour. Make sure you have ample elbow room, ensure you have your spatulas near by. If you are not used to slow pouring, you are going to want to put some some parchment paper or some old towels to catch the drips. To prep your mould, I like to use a folded up micro-fiber cloth. You could use the edge of a plate, some container lids, anything where your mould won’t be slipping.

Now! You have your soap freshly mixed, you are certain that your soap has reached a good and stable emulsion (your soap is very liquidy but trace hasn’t happened yet) you are ready to go! This is hard state to describe, and this is why I am posting this as an advanced DIY category. You know this emulsified state, that’s all you want to reach! If you soap gets any thicker than this, you won’t be able to continue with the ombrè soaping!

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for the love of all things Labyrinth, please pour slowly!

You are going to begin to pour your very liquidy soap SLOWLY down the edge of your mould. I usually do about five lines back and forth. This first one is your soaps base colour. For this particular soap, that means just titanium dioxide to colour.

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adding your colour

Once you’ve made your first pass by, you are going to begin adding in your colour. I like to use the spoon as pictured above and add in three spoonfuls of colour when I add my colour. This may or may not be different for you. If you want a more drastic colour change, you will need to add more. If you want a less drastic colour change, add less. If you are soaping with a larger mould, you will need to add more.

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you can see how I forgot to tap my measuring cup of soap before pouring, don’t make the same mistake! Prevent the air bubbles! Oops. 

And repeat. Slowly. Over and over again. Slowly pour in the soap along the wall of the mould a couple of times, then add in a couple of spoonfuls of pre-mixed colour, mix, slowly pour again. Over and over again!

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the first couple of pass bys don’t really make you feel all that good about your pours, but then you see something like this?  You get to go all googley eyes! 

Once your soap is about three quarters poured, you might find you need to remove the folded towel and level out your soap, or that your soap is no longer as liquidy as it should be. This results in what I refer to as “avalanching”. The soap builds up along the wall of the mould then collapses into the soap. That is ok!

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you can see how the soap has kind of built up along the wall of the mould- even though it is still VERY liquidy to work with! It can even avalanche on you!  

Once you have poured out all your soap, levelled your mould, it is up to you how to want to decorate your tops. You can build it up, slide it up to one side and add a garnish. This time around, I decided to level off the top and use the left over pre-mixed mica to add a beautiful swirl pattern on the top. If you choose to resist the urge to swirl your soap, good on you! But if you choose to swirl? Be prepared for something awesome looking!

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gratuitous soap porn wet soap image 

Are you ready to get cracking?

How to make soap (in case you forgot).

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  1. Prepare your work space by spraying everything down with 75% ISP alcohol; your tools, containers, equipment, even your work space. Don your safety gear! Wear your eye protection, gloves, and closed toe shoes. I always wear my apron!
  2. Into Container A weigh out your salt, sugar, water and mix until dissolved. Into a small plastic container, weigh out your lye, and slowly add into Container A stirring as you go. Set aside and allow to cool to room temperature. Once at room temperature, mix in your goat milk power and titanium dioxide and blend.
  3. Into Container B, weigh out your lard, coconut oil and melt. Once melted, weigh in your olive oil, castor oil, and fragrance oil if you are using it. Stir, then set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.
  4. Into Container C, weigh out your mica and some additional oil. I usually add 5g of mica to 30g of a liquid oil in the recipe (in this case, olive oil).
  5. Set up your mould.
  6. Allow Container A and Container B to come to room temperature. Let them sit at room temperature for half and hour or even a little longer to ensure they are really at room temperature and at the same temp.
  7. Add Container A with the lye solution into Container B with your oil solution, pulsing as your pour slowly.
  8. Mix till your get a full emulsion.
  9. Slowly pour along the wall of your mould.
  10. Add in a couple spoon fulls of your pre-mixed colour from Container C into your soap. Stir with a spatula or spoon till incorporated.
  11. Again, slowly pour your soap along the wall of your mould.
  12. Add in a couple spoon fulls of your pre-mixed colour from Container C into your soap. Stir with a spatula or spoon till incorporated.
  13. Repeat till all your soap has been poured.
  14. Decorate your top as you’d like, and set aside for at least 12-48 hours before unmoulding and cutting.
  15. Allow to cure for at least 4-6 weeks before first use.
  16. Tag me on Instagram and show off your colours!
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you can see where the soap decided to avalanche giving a darker top but resulting in a gorgeous bar of soap! 
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the various tops I have done in the ombrè style of soap

 

 

 

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