DIY: Stinks like A*! KMF Hydration Booster

I caved folks.

I truly truly caved. I have the neem soap. I have the neem cleansing balm. I have the neem toner. I have the neem stick. And I now how the Neem Hydration Booster. But good god, even I started to get a little neemed out. I made a few of these hydration boosters; one at 1% neem, 2%, 4%, and 5%. And honestly? 4% as a leave on product is a wee bit potent scented but found it to give the best skin results. So I mixed up an essential oil blend that took my mind off things. Oh yeah. Tea tree oil and chamomile.

1%, 2%, and 4% neem based hydration booster and it’s various colour schemes! 

I’ve acne prone, oily, mature skin. Great on the lack of wrinkles front, but crappy in every other way till I get the wrinkles. Since Spring is well established here, it’s getting more humid with each passing day. Which means, I get to stop wearing lotion! Huzzah! But I need something with a little more oomph than just a spray or toner. And that’s where a hydration booster comes in. This booster is made with AVC as the emulsifying agent, which has been played with it many times here at Scrub Me Down. Compared to every other gelling agent I’ve worked with, it is still my favourite.

that’s 1g of AVC

Many people have said that they’ve found AVC to get a little tacky, and I found AVC based gels to be tacky only when I load up on oils/fats over 8%. Now if this is science based, I haven’t seen any evidence of it, it’s just from my own experimenting. So if tack is happening, check your oils first!

To make this gel, I decided to do something crazy. I tossed all the powders that needed dissolving into Beaker A, and then weighed in water. But, my water had been boiling, and brought down to 80C! I used my mini-mixer and set to dissolving all my powders into the water. As I was only going to be making 50g of product, I figured why not give it a go? And two months later? Still no separation, my skin is still enjoying all the fancy benefits of neem! Highly moisturising? Check. Gosh dang it reported to be a miracle oil? Check. Great for mature skin? Check. Possibly help with my likes to be red skin? Check. Seriously? That last one had me. Of course. If you choose to try this hot water to powder method, I did discover some things, rapid cool down and immediately stirring is key! I’ve not tried this method in larger batches so I have no idea if it would work.

oodles of powders all in Beaker A

I then added in the rest of my liquids once the water was cooled, my oils, then ACV. Preservative to follow up! I know! It was actually that easy! Took longer to boil the water than it was to make this tube of awesomeness.

my newest stash of white powders! 

Mrs. Richardson’s Kitchen sent me a fantastic little care package this past Spring Festival. Oh golly it was better than Christmas! She sent me some N-Acetyl Glucosamine- NAG, Penstia Powder, Sepilift, and Antarcticine. I am loving the Antarcticine, but that will be in a future post! I’ve been adding NAG to many of my gels and lotions, and this will be the first post to feature it! NAG is shown to have a great effect on evening skin tone, and reducing hyper-pigmentation due to age spots and increase hydration to the skin. Well, I’ve still got oodles of freckles so can’t tell you with any sort of certainty if it works on pigmentation. But my skin has been looking brighter. I decided to use it at 4% in this recipe. I also decided to use 4% Penstia powder in this recipe. Since this was my second batch of this product, it was the best place to begin experimenting with it. Penstia helps to increase the sensory application of products. So helps lotions glide better when you apply them. It also helps to reduce tackiness of a product, and helps to increase delivery of your products actives into the skin.

Neem oil is a pretty gosh dang heavy oil. You can see how it holds it’s shape as it comes out of the bottle? Yeah, on your skin it takes some time to be absorbed, so I mixed it up with a very quick absorbing oil: argan. With both of them working together, you get a pretty quick sinking in face gel!

You can see how it holds it’s shape as it comes out of the bottle? 

How neat is that?

To decant this product, I put it into a large bore syringe and squeezed it into my squeezie  tube.

I’m actually almost out of my second tube of this recipe! And I’m not going to be surprised if I make this exact recipe once more before I leave for Ireland. The only unfortunate part of it, is the smell. Thankfully, just this Booster on it’s own with no essential oils, the scent dissipates after a few minutes. But honestly… with all the neem scented stuff in my life over the past few months… it’s a little much. So I decided to pack in some oomph power in the way of essential oils and their smells. It still smells pretty rank, but not so neemy! More medicinal. Crap.

just waiting to add the AVC to Beaker A filled with all the skin loving goodies! 

I know! Why can’t awesome things smell less like ass and more like… strawberries and cream?

The essential oils I used are tea tree and chamomile. Lavender would also be a neat choice. As would cedar.

Screen Shot 2018-05-09 at 07.18.31.png

  1. Put the kettle on the stove, bring it to a full boil and allow to boil for at least ten minutes.
  2. Prepare your work space. Wipe everything down with 70% ISP alcohol. Include all your beakers, stir rods, spoons, scales, containers too!
  3. Into your Beaker A weigh out all your powders; N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Pestia, panthenol powder (if you are using the liquid, at during the cool down), niacinamide, and allantoin.
  4. Turn off the kettle, and weigh out your water into Beaker B. Wait till the water is 80C before adding it to Beaker A. STIR LIKE A FIEND.
  5. Weigh in the Hydrolysed Oats and then the neem, argan, and essential oils into Beaker A. DO NOT MIX.
  6. Weigh out your Aristoflex-AVC into Beaker C, then sprinkle it evenly across the top of the oils.
  7. Now mix!
  8. Add in your preservative, mix.
  9. Decant, and only cap once your mixture has reached room temperature. Enjoy!ASS Booster.jpeg

    using the Micromini Mixer from LotionCrafter, a fantastic little tool perfect for AVC work! 
great photo! Just before mixing the AVC

4 thoughts on “DIY: Stinks like A*! KMF Hydration Booster

Add yours

    1. Neem is like coconut oil. Solid at cooler temps and more of a liquid at warmer temps. I do have to say though, that the inclusion of the essential oils made this product a lot more pleasant to the nose. I am loving how this stuff works!

      How is your soap working?


  1. Argh… somehow I missed liking and commenting on this post, but I just found it. I see you used Penstia powder. I have been eyeing that at Lotioncrafter. How do you like it? Do you notice a difference when using it? What does it bring to the table?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I find the Penstia powder gets rid of the “soap” effect of the lotions I’ve made with it. But it is a pain in the backside as I’ve discovered you need a high shear mixer (immersion blender type of deal) so making smaller amounts is out of the question. When I’m all set up I plan to play with it more and do some comparisons.

      My biggest reason so using it, is I want to increase the ingredients skin penetration. I want to compare it to using lemon and orange essential oil.

      Liked by 1 person

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