Some people go crazy over shoes, whilst others over purses. Some go wonkadoo over power tools and new appliances. I get full on gush mode when I get a new ingredient I’ve not played with before. It fills my head with all the crazy things I can do with it. The potential colour combos, the various ingredients I can use to make it happen, the container… how I want to present it to the world. All this is planned even before I get it in the mail. And then I go to make it….
And everything is tossed out the window.
I’ve been selling an awesome lip balm for a long time now, it works wonderfully, but the biggest question customers ask us is, there is no flavour. Why is there no flavour? Why? WHY! The reason there is no flavour, was because I couldn’t get my hands on any flavour oil from a reputable source. Lots of people have lip flavours here in China, but come on. Apple flavoured lip product? What about milk flavoured? Yeah no. So I stuck with plain or mint and that was about it. Sometimes I’d play with chocolate scented with cocoa butter and chocolate extract, but… plain was awesome!
And so, I finally took the plunge and decided to buy some lip flavour oils to play with.
Want to know what I discovered? Lip flavour oils taste like ass. They really have no flavour! They taste horrible. But they smell delightful! Taste horrible, but smell really good. You need to add some sort of oil soluble sweetener to your lip balm in order to get your lip balm to trick your brain into thinking that the lip balm actually tastes like the flavour you’ve got going on. YES! I know! That means all your lip balms taste the same you’ve just tricked your mind into thinking it’s a different flavour because of the scent. And then to make matter even worse? People in the cosmetic world refer to lip flavours as “scents” so when you are talking to someone? You really need to be careful that you are talking about a lip flavour or a scent as in fragrance oil.
Go figure. But that begs the question, why are you wanting to eat your lip balm product?
In this recipe I decided to change it up a little. I decided I wanted to play with shea butter in this lip balm recipe as I spent time learning how to make butter products without leaving shea granules in a product and wanted to try to get some feedback on it. Shea is good for dry gross lips, and I find when the seasons change, lots of people have lip issues. And because of this, I made the decision to use jojoba oil to sooth chapped lips as jojoba oil is similar to our precious skin’s natural oil. Castor oil is always in my lip products, I like to shine! And finally, beeswax for hardening factor.
Our lip flavour oil today is bubblegum flavour from TheSoapKitchen.co.uk and the colour I used was Dark Cerise mica from TheSoapKitchen. I’d been eyeing that pinky goodness for a while and finally found a fantastic use for it!
I used a lot of Dark Cerise mica in my recipe as I made 100g worth of lip balm. But to work out the magic for you, I used 1/32tsp of mica in the recipe below. You can use more and rock a more distinct pink on your lips, or you can use a wee bit less for just colouring your balm. I like the happy medium.
Let’s get back to the lip flavour shall I? Generally, you’d only use lip flavours at about 1-3% of the total recipe, otherwise you can find you develop a sensitivity to them. In this case, less does equal more. With lip flavours tasting so terrible, I don’t think you’d want to add more. Not to mention, not all lip flavours are kid safe. So if you plan to be making some DIY stuff with say bubblegum lip flavour for your kids? Check out the IFRA and MSDS reports before you do.
At the end of the day, to be perfectly honest with you, I’ll continue to play with the lip flavours, but I am so far not really a fan of them. I still much prefer to rock the peppermint essential or plain. Although, I have to admit, I bought a spearmint essential oil I can’t wait to try out in a lip product! Mmmm…. sweet mint flavoured goodness!
So pucker up ladies! And let’s get making!
- Prepare your work space; wipe down all your tools and beakers with 70% ISP rubbing alcohol. Prepare your double boiler, and turn it onto a barely there simmer.
- Weigh your jojoba oil, castor oil, beeswax, and shea butter into your beaker and place in your beaker in your double boiler.
- Let your ingredients melt down.
- Once your ingredients are melted down, stir well and add in your mica.
- Once your lip balm has come to a temperature where you can hold the beaker in your hand without it feeling uncomfortably hot (this is usually between 40-50C), add in your lip flavouring.
- Stir well.
- If you are making a small amount (recipe above 10g) you can skip this step. If you are making a larger amount, you’ll need to continue stirring your lip balm until a light trace occurs. This is due to the way the properties of shea butter cool. The stearic acid in shea butter will clump together and cause “crystals” to form. So continue stirring! Until you see a light trace, then pour. For this reason, I used pots rather than tubes for this recipe. If you make a smallerish amount, you’ll reach trace probably before you include your lip flavour!
- Allow to cool, cap, label, and gift!